jeep cj7

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jeep cj7 : -> .MSGID: 1:372/10 000323b9-> .REPLYTO 1:372/10 UUCP-> .REPLYADDR -> .PID GIGO unreg at chasnet vsn 0.98w32-> From: (Todd Paulus)-> .Newsgroups: rec.autos-> .Subject: Jeep CJ7: Fuel Injection-> .Message-Id: -> Date: 28 Feb 94 22:28:00 GMT-> .Reply-To: (Todd Paulus)-> .Organization: The Web BBS!->-> Monday, 02-28-1994-> Conference: Main Board->-> I have a Jeep CJ7, 1985, 6 cylinder. It's in pretty good shape and-> the engine is strictly stock. My mechanic says that the carberatur-> needs to be rebuilt or replaced. I am having trouble with the idle,-> the spark plugs fowl prematurely, and I think my fuel economy is lowe-> than normal, so I presume he is probably correct. Someone once told-> that there exists a fuel injection upgrade kit for jeeps. If so, I-> would certainly like to know where I can find it. Also, has anyone-> tried to install one and what is your opinion on the results? Failin-> this approach, maybe someone out there has some recommendations for m-> I would appreciate any and all info I can get! Thanks all!->->->-> Best regards,-> Todd->-> ----> . KWQ/2 1.2d . Talk is cheap because supply exceeds demand.->-> -----> ________________________________________ _____________________________-> The WEB BBS! Full USENET Feed, 150,000 Online Files!-> Home of ASi, Providers of Multi-platform ZIP Compression !!-> Curently Available on, UNIX, MVS, Windows, Macintosh, AS/400->-> ----> # Origin: Usenet: ChasNet FTN Network BBS Support Services, Charles-> .GPTH: 372/10-> .GATE: 7223:1302/1.0 2d7803cd-> ---->

jeep cj7 : Hello. I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 for sale. It has the 258 inline 6, automatictrans, and working A/C. It has the factory hardtop and full steel doors, aswell as a new Bestop Supertop soft top. The body is very solid, with onlythe windshield frame in need of replacement. The back corners and rockerpanels have new sheetmetal welded in, and these areas are covered withdiamond plate. The diamond plate was installed with copious amounts ofsilicone, and stainless nuts and bolts, so it was NOT done to cover up rustor collision damage. The inside of the tub has been coated with Durabakpoly/rubber compound. The carburetor has been rebuilt, theemissions/exhaust have been replaced (including the cat. converter), theradiator is new. It has new 30x9.5 inch tires, on chrome wagon wheel typerims. It has a new Pioneer CD player and speakers. Theengine/transmission/suspension are all original, nothing has been tamperedwith or broken. It is a 2 owner Jeep, with 83,000 miles. I have the originalbuildsheet. The Jeep runs and drives very well, I regularly drive it on thefreeway without any problems. The 4 wheel drive works properly, though Idon't think it's been off road much, if at all. It's a very nice looking anddriving CJ7, I just need something more suitable for my driving habits; I'mnot likely to be going off road anytime soon. It's located in SE Michigan,and I'm asking $5500 for it. If interested, please email me at Thank you.

jeep cj7 : On Mon, 07 Jun 1999 13:21:11 GMT, jander enlightenedus thusly:The only thing weak about the AMC 20 housing is that the tubes arejust pressed into the center section. 10 minutes with a welder takescare of this. Warn is confident enough about the kit that they give the entire setupan unconditional lifetime warranty. I have had my Warn kit since last Thanksgiving, and have give it apretty good workout. I did the new Wrecking Ball trail at JohnsonValley, CA. How good a test was this? I broke both front axles, myfront driveshaft, a tie rod and a drag link, but the AMC/Warn rearaxle held up just fine.Bob "Spiderman" Stickney'79 CJ5, 304 V8, 33's lockers, 70:1 crawl. lotsa dents - Jeep+Willys southwest web page - San Diego 4 Wheelers Web PageI had the pleasure of getting the scoop on the AMC 20. From a drag racerwho likes to use AMC20's. It actually can be a very good axle. Asmentioned by Robert, the Warn Floater upgrade is excellent choice along witha welder that knows his stuff and with an axle truss, you would then have anaxle that would be suprior to the Dana 44. Your ring gear on the AMC 20would be 8.875 (bigger and better) vs 8.625 for the Dana 44. You would havea spline count of 29 for the AMC 20 vs. 30 for the DANA 44 but the strengthdifference there would be marginal.

jeep cj7 : The Warn Full Floater upgrade for the AMC-20 is really cool. The axles arealmost 300% stronger then your factory setup and the shafts come with alifetime warranty. And if you upgrade your carrier to either an ARB, aTrac-Lok (this came as on option some AMC-20s, mine's toast) or a DetroitLocker, you will then have an axle that's stronger than the Dana 44. If youcompare the cost to make these upgrade vs. buying a Dana 44 plus you willstill need to upgrade the traction control it appears to be a better choiceto stick with your AMC-20In reality, any Jeep CJ that has a solid body and a decent drive trainwill get you where you want to go. I own an '86 CJ-7 and have had a blastwith it. My only grip is with the Carter BBD that was used on all 80-86CJ's. It tend to be a bit on the temperamental side. Many sources point to the 78-79 CJ's as being the best choice foroff-roading, but here in the capital of the rust belt (Maine) it's hard tofind an earlier model without air conditioning via floorboard rust holes.Good luck finding your dream machine.

jeep cj7 : Hey all, I am currently looking to buy a Jeep Cj7 and had a few questionsthat would help me a lot if you all could answer them. I want it to have 33'tires, what type of lift would be the best for those... I know i want itwith a suspension lift, not a body or shackle, but how much of a lift isbest for these tires? What are common problems among Jeep Cj7s from1982-1987? What is the best gearing for the 33s? What should i expect topay? Engine and Transmission don't matter to me, as I plan to rebuild them.I would like the Straight six though. And is there anything else I shouldknow about buying Jeeps?Thanks.I would buy any CJ7 that you might happen to find. then build it however youwant. Those years will have a stock I6 motor, or they could have a stock 4.The axles will likely be the D30 front and AMC20 rear, but there are a fewD44 rears out there.On Tue, 6 Mar 2001 16:46:13 -0500, "Steve Hite" wrote:As lifts go, you're correct when you said that a suspension lift isbetter than a body or shackle. A 4" lift seems to be the standard forrunning 33"s and is what I'm planning for my CJ-5. There are a bunchof manufacturers of these lifts and I'm currently comparison shoppingfor the best product/deal. The '82-'86 CJ's (the '87 was the firstyear Wrangler) have a few advantages over the earlier models. Ibelieve '82 was the first year of the wide track axles which addsstability with bigger tires. The 258 is a workhorse and parts areeverywhere. If you can swing the fuel injection kit and swap a set of4.0L heads, you'll end up with more power than my mildly built 304.Like any CJ, the body panels are prone to rust. Check the floorboards and where the floor meets the rocker panels. The frame is alsoprone to cracks and rust. The Model 20 rear axle uses a 2 piecedesign which will come apart under load. One piece axles areavailable for about $300 a set. Check the steering for excess play.Steering boxes are expensive to replace. There is a ton of infoavailable on the web and in books such as The Jeep Bible which willhelp you make the best purchase.


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